John Morton and two MSIA ministers, Holly Engelman and David Morton, are traveling in Pakistan and Afghanistan January 16-24, 2002, doing humanitarian aid work for Wheels for Humanity in collaboration with the Pakistan Islamic Medical Association (PIMA). Through email, John has been able to send us brief messages about his travels. We have compiled his piecemeal accounts in this article for your enjoyment.

On the morning of January 16th, John arrived home in Los Angeles after traveling to Seattle and his hometown, Sacramento. That same evening he boarded a plane to begin the long trip to Pakistan. His first connection was in London, where he met up with Holly and David.

We received this message from John about his journey after departing from London:

“I am writing this at about 4:00 a.m. local time, according to the flight information provided on board our airplane which is actively tracing our route. Those around me are slumbering away. I thought that you might like to hear about where we are flying en route. We have flown across Europe until reaching the Black Sea north of Istanbul (reminding me of when we sailed from Istanbul to Varna, Bulgaria, during the 1987 eastern Europe trip) then across Northern Turkey, into Iran just south of Yeravan, Tbilisi, and Baku (where we visited during the 1988 Soviet Union trip), continuing just south of Tehran and the Caspian Sea and onward to Dubai where we land on the western shore of the Persian Gulf in the United Arab Emirates, home of the world’s tallest hotel. Oh, what did I have for dinner tonight? They brought an elegant carafe of Arabian coffee to start. Then a very lovely, fresh mixed green salad with a delicious pumpkin seed oil dressing followed by my main course of steamed rice, fennel, broccoli, carrots, mixed peppers, and spinach to be topped off with some farmhouse cheddar cheese and glass of port. Pakistani food is very good for me.

Sweet Dreams,
Morton after Midnight”

The next message we received from John was from Karachi, Pakistan.

“We, David Morton, Holly Engelman and I are very comfortably holed up in our Karachi Sheraton digs. Initially, I found a restriction on the Internet access number, which applies to Pakistan as one of three such restricted countries in the world. But this e-mail is now being done by calling the local Singapore (Oh, it’s not local?) access number. Thus, at least for the next 24 hours I will likely be able to do e-mail. I am working on getting clearance for access in Pakistan but dealing with a voicemail service thus far.

We have been hosted very wonderfully. Last night’s dinner with a local M.D., who was educated for 13 years in London, was worth several seminars alone. But consider if God combined a person from Henny Youngman and Mahatma Gandhi, who you would get?

Tonight we are told we are dining with the Mayor of Karachi, a city with a population of a mere 13 million or so.

Salaam aleikum”

Then, later the same day:

“I was able to talk to local Pakistani technical help regarding getting authorization to use the Internet access while here in Pakistan.

I had to send a fax with my particulars but it did apparently work. Now the next problem seems to be getting access and holding it since after several tries I did get through but was “unexpectedly disconnected” shortly thereafter.

In third world countries I have sometimes found that the local access numbers get tied up with what I suspect is heavy traffic so during prime business hours it can be very difficult.

On another note, it looks like they have managed to adjust the itinerary to suit my departure and we will go to Islamabad the following two nights, Sunday and Monday, and then fly to Quetta for one night and then likely spend a night in Kandahar, Afghanistan. That is all in the works.

We also have had quite a tour of the local medical facilities that PIMA supports and which serve the poor. More on that later.”

The next day, John elaborates for us on his tour of the local medical facilities:

“Yesterday our PIMA hosts took us around to several PIMA supported clinics that cater to the poor and the poorest of the poor. We were also told of medical camps that are set up in the more rural areas that provide free operations. In one doctor’s moving account, we were told of the prevalence of cataracts in the local population with historically many people going blind often simply due to lack of medical attention. There is a simple lens replacing operation that can be done so that the vast majority of these cases can go from very poor eyesight, moving toward blindness, to not even needing glasses. He told us of how he would get up at 4:00 a.m. on a Saturday, his weekend, drive for several hours, personally do 70 cataract operations until late into the evening and then on Sunday do even more and then return late Sunday. He said these camps, staffed entirely by volunteer doctors and nurses, have done as many as 1000 operations in a weekend. PIMA reports that the government health programs do not provide nearly what is needed. Thus, their organization actively seeks charitable donations and volunteer support to bridge the gap between what is needed and what is currently available.

We have yet to meet up with the wheelchairs and supplies from several relief shipping containers that have arrived in Pakistan. The distribution of these supplies and the formation of relationships is the heart of the purpose for our being here on behalf of Wheels for Humanity. Much of the supplies that have been sent have also come from U.S. Mormon relief efforts.

We experience and greatly appreciate the Light, prayers and caring being sent our way from so many.

Love & Light, John”

And next, from John on the road from Peshawar to the Khyber Pass

“When you receive this just know that it was written from the road that goes from Peshawar, an old gateway city, to the Khyber Pass, and will arrive in Islamabad for the night. Tomorrow we fly to Quetta going on to Chaman to stay for 2 nights. We were told there would be another in the series of welcome dinners, with doctors and also officials from various relief agencies. We visited a refugee camp today along with a hospital and small clinic for the refugees. We will be going into Afghanistan, inshallah (God willing), on Wednesday to visit Spin Boldak area refugee camps. They are considering taking us to Kandahar if conditions will permit. We are holding as the Light assists with releasing the relief supplies from holding at the government receiving locations. The containers from Wheels for Humanity have arrived in the Quetta area as well as others that we are helping to deliver from the Mormons and the Noor Foundation

We are having a fabulous time. Our hosts are proud, dedicated doctors who want to make sure we have a direct experience of the situation and their ongoing effort to help (going back over 20 years). Their medical society is separate from the one associated with the Pakistan government, and so they are doing many programs that the government simply does not do but are very needed.

I got a signal today on my satellite phone, but the call attempts didn’t make it through. Also, the Polaroid camera has been a big hit, especially with the kids. One of my favorite moments was being taken into a recovery room in a Karachi hospital where mother, family and a one-hour-old baby was. I loved giving the photo of the grandmother holding her new granddaughter. Much more to tell, and do consider that we are safe and sound, as that has been our constant experience. Well, maybe with the exception of the many close encounters our drivers bring to us on the highways and byways of Pakistan.

Cheers,
JOHN”

From John, on the way from Quetta to Chaman

“Dear Friends;

We are on our way from Quetta to Chaman after having arrived today from Islamabad.

In Islamabad we had yet another in our series of evening gatherings with members of PIMA (Pakistani Islamic Medical Association). About 10 medical doctors joined us. The host was educated at Yale and reportedly very successful in his organ transplant practice in the U.S. He is apparently the first such transplant doctor in Pakistan having decided to return to serve his motherland.

Also with us is a woman from Karachi who, since the bombing started last October, has personally raised over $100,000 to bring relief supplies to those directly affected by the war. We are told that the relief effort practically stopped inside Afghanistan and is much needed at the moment.

In Quetta we visited a PIMA hospital that offers entirely free medical service. We saw several patients from Afghanistan who have war related injuries, mostly from the bombings. They have an impressive orthopedic and prosthetic unit in which they now make and fit their own devices to suit the particular circumstances that are common to this area. This brings a potent experience of the results of the war and the attending needs.

The PIMA organization is intent on making sure we know first hand and with our own eyes and compassion, the needs that are here and the current well established efforts that are in place but sorely short of what is called for to assist. They want help and welcome international support. We were shown machines and technologies that are considered obsolete by western standards but still quite useful in their practice. They are calling for more equipment and supplies and particularly the knowledge and training to utilize the higher standards that are available. Often the problem is being able to maintain the equipment since parts and repair is not readily available or afforded.

We have had some open discussions of the various issues that are at play in this situation. They are thankful that we are presenting an American presence that is here to help and willing to entrust our welfare into their hands. It is an honor and blessing to be with them as they are a powerful force for the greater good.

Our driver informed us as we just drove through a small village on the way to Chaman that it is a center for smuggling of drugs and armaments. PIMA is building a new hospital there.

Tomorrow our itinerary calls for entry into Afghanistan to Spin Boldak and Kandahar.

Thankfully today we have seen with our eyes that the Wheels for Humanity wheel chairs and supplies are now available for distribution.
Allah ku shukara (thanks be to God).

Love & Light,
John”

From John on the road to Afghanistan

“I am writing this to you just after we have passed Khojak Pass at about 8800 feet above sea level. We could see the lights of Chaman and the road into Afghanistan in the distance. And it has begun to snow! Which is all the more reason to get down the pass. David Morton is referring to our ride on the road to an E ticket (a reference to the most thrilling rides at Disneyland). The mountainous winding road we are on is rather bumpy, precipiced, without guardrails and frequented with vehicles large and small that are apparently in some kind of road rally that rewards them for daring (I won’t say dangerous) moves. More fun if you find roller coasters to your liking. What is interesting is our driver has just informed us that for us he is driving slowly. I am thankful we chose to pass on entering the road rally. Didn’t Bob Hope and Bing Crosby make a movie about this? I’ll be sure to watch it upon my return.

And yes, the question about what TV show was named for a pass between Pakistan and Afghanistan will be on the final exam.

Lovely chatting with you on the Road Again,
John”

From John in Chaman, Pakistan, on the border of Afghanistan

“This is being sent to you from Chaman, Pakistan, just over the border from Afghanistan where we are staying at the PIMA headquarters along with about 50 other relief workers from various agencies, NGOs, etc.

It is very inspiring to be here, as the human needs are tremendous and the willingness to serve those needs is more than whatever it takes. I will have much to say about this as the experience deepens. We are now at the heart of the reason for our being here. Tomorrow we are set up to enter Afghanistan to visit various refugee camps and onto Kandahar. We were shown digital photos of the war situation including the camps, injured, and damage to structures and infrastructure.

PIMA has been asked to take responsibility for re-instituting the Kandahar hospital that is currently virtually defunct. I saw photos of the new President of Afghanistan visiting the hospital with PIMA staff.

Tonight David Morton was invited to do a presentation on Wheels for Humanity and his talk was an inspiration for all. Dr. Hafeez-ur-Rahman, President of PIMA, also gave acknowledgement to the Good Works Foundation and told of a newspaper story of a Kandahar woman who has 9 children, lost her husband and now is feeding her children animal feed as for months she has not been able to get rice, meat or other food for her family. We have been told many personal stories from people on our trip such that the grim reality of the situation is all the more real.

God has blessed us with this opportunity to be here to serve and to experience directly the need to serve. We are very aware of the Light and prayers coming our way to share with all. We are referred to as brothers and sisters and it is true.

Love to you all. And we are having lots of laughs, as joy is abundant when the heart is being shared so freely.

Love & Light,
John”

Sent to us by John Morton on the evening of January 23

“Today was D-day on our trip. We started at about 8:30am heading from Chaman, where we are staying, to the Afghan border.

On the way we visited a PIMA clinic and then onward through the border. I emphasize “through” as there was no customs check whatsoever. It was a bit like going from one side of Wichita to the other when Wyatt Earp was working there. We noticed a few of the local fellas packin’ their Kalashnikov rifles and that decorum continued throughout the day.

We stopped at another new PIMA clinic in Spin Boldak. The locals were patiently lined up outside waiting to get some medical attention. This clinic is the first professional hospital ever to be located in this area and includes a fully functioning operation room and radiology lab. I was probably the most popular guy as I was kept busy taking some Polaroid photos which I gave to the locals, particularly the younger ones.

After Spin Boldak we left a marginally paved road for a dramatically carved, rocky and unpaved stretch of road for the next couple of hours. The road rally was on as we sped at top speed, top being the operative word as some of us over the rear axle made repeated contacts with the ceiling and our heads. We were treated to views of relatively uninhabited and sparse terrain with many substantial rock formations on the horizon. In the distance we could see snow capped mountain ranges to the north and east.

Instead of commercial outlets along the way, we found the occasional roadside makeshift stands selling food, auto parts, and staples. There were also frequent young children squatting roadside with their hands cupped and extended to beg for alms.

As we moved closer to Kandahar we saw many indications of the war. We crossed a couple of severely damaged concrete bridges from the recent bombing. We passed burned out vehicles and structures and several places with craters in the road. As we entered the outskirts of Kandahar we saw more and more of the remains of war. There was rubble in several places which we are told came from the bombing. And we saw American soldiers inside the gate of the Airport.

Kandahar center was like a large bustling bazaar, crowded with people and vehicles competing for space. We were certainly noticed by the locals who often waved and smiled while some approached us to interact.

What started with the aftermath of the most rain in 6 years, cloudy and cold, turned to warm and sunny. We had a nice lunch in the courtyard of a PIMA facility in Kandahar. I had been carrying a satellite phone, that Verizon had made available complimentary throughout the trip, but had not been able to connect. I tried it yet again from Kandahar and “bingo” soon was talking with John-Roger just after 1:00am his time in Los Angeles. While we had him on the phone we planted a Light column and I repeated to the video camera, capturing the moment, the invocation prayer that J-R told to me long distance. That was a spontaneous and unplanned event and felt about the same as calling from the moon. David, Holly and I couldn’t resist the opportunity to wake up some family and friends and leave some messages. It was quite a delight.

We later visited a main hospital in Kandahar that PIMA has taken over in order to re-establish the staff and infrastructure needed. As we were approaching the main entrance we noticed that the guards, who are typically not in any kind of uniform but merely distinguished by carrying the Kalashnikovs, were rather excited and talking with our hosts about something. We found out that some of the Taliban fighters were holed up in the building next door, refusing to surrender. They were concerned for our safety so we were quickly escorted to what they considered was a safe haven.

As the PIMA staff continued on a tour of the hospital, David, Holly and myself waited out front and soon were having fun with our Kalashnikov-carrying friends who look undistinguishable from their Taliban foes. When our PIMA escorts came out from their tour to find us fraternizing and taking photos with the Kalashnikov guys, they were somewhat flabbergasted. I suppose it was a bit like seeing the lions and the lambs lying down together.

On our way back to Chaman, a 3 hour plus trip, we noticed the dust had picked up measurably. In checking, we found that we had been spared a great deal of dust thanks to the most rain in 6 years from the night before. One rather funny sight was the Afghan tank we passed driving up the highway with some local mujahedin acting like they were out on a hay ride. As we arrived at a border checkpoint in Spin Boldak we found out that the border was closed for the night. Hmm, sleeping in a mini van with 8 of my fellow passengers didn’t quite seem like the quintessential cap to our day in Afghanistan. Somehow our escorts managed to work out something so the border re-opened for us to pass. And, just as we were crossing the border into Afghanistan, our driver, apparently in an effort to perform well in the road rally, drove us rapidly into a pothole. My head made the greatest impact with the ceiling of the entire day. As much as that blow hurt and stunned me, nothing could dampen the extraordinary journey to Kandahar.

Tomorrow I begin a 3 day process of traveling back to Los Angeles. David and Holly are planning to stay for another week as part of the Wheels for Humanity relief effort.

Lovely meeting up with you along the Way. See you around the next bend.”

And this from John later that night

“There have been a few moments in which guys carrying their Kalashnikov rifles approached us, at several checkpoints or some kind of stop. These guys don’t wear uniforms, and we saw the camouflage uniforms of the Northern Alliance so we know the difference exists. One situation involved our caravan stopping to look at an American parachute that the locals were now using as a roadside tent. Then 4 rifle carrying guys started approaching our car from somewhere previously unseen, our escorts started yelling “drive on, drive on”, but I noted the smiles on their faces and chalked it up to their welcoming us as is their custom. One fact is certain — we are safe and sound and have been constantly honored by our hosts and whoever they have introduced us to. There has not been a sign to us of unwelcome. Yes, walking in the light works.”

Received from John Morton on the night of January 24

“This will be brief as I’m about to leave for the Karachi Airport in Pakistan to fly to London and then onto Los Angeles.

I stayed the night in Pakistan at the home of Dr. Saiyed Ehsanullah, the man who I earlier referred to as a cross between Mahatma Gandhi and Henny Youngman which still stands. He is also known as Dr. Freddie (when he was educated and trained medically in London one of his colleagues decided to call him Freddie because that was easier to pronounce, and due to something about Freddie and the Dreamers for those who know that bit of 60’s nostalgia). They have been the perfect hosts and have a beautiful and quaint home with a lovely garden including hundreds of cactus plants. I have very much enjoyed meeting his family including 7 children. We had some lively discussion across cultures and points of view. They laugh when I tell them of the worry for our welfare as they consider their country very safe and hospitable. That has certainly been our experience, even though yesterday on my drive from Chaman to Quetta we likely encountered at least 10 official stops by various police and military. When they would ask about me, since I obviously didn’t look like I was from the neighborhood, I noted their delight and surprise upon hearing that I was from America.

I opened up the Microsoft Internet Explorer news and read the first headline story about the Governor of Kandahar, Gul Agha, addressing a rally of some 5,000 supporters of Democracy. I’m still learning the names so I’m not sure, but I think that he visited us at our PIMA lunch in Kandahar. We were visited by an important local official who we were told was breaking away from his pressing schedule to greet us. It’s on videotape so perhaps we will know for sure.
David Morton and Holly Engelman are still staying in Chaman in order to at last begin distributing wheelchairs in the camps, clinics and hospitals in and near Chaman, Spin Boldak and Kandahar. The official red tape and logistics have kept this operation on hold. But we were told that today the wheelchairs and other relief supplies would be available. Your prayers and Light are a continuous support. David was especially experiencing nausea and general weakness. Holly has been dealing with a recurring cough.

I am full of good experience and compassion as I leave Pakistan and Afghanistan. I am sure you share this in your heart of hearts.”

Please continue to send John Morton, Holly Engelman and David Morton the Light, and we will keep you up to date as we receive more information.

Keeping you current with the Traveler’s Travels,

The eNDH staff

Click here to watch a Moment of Peace with John Morton in Afghanistan

Click here to read Holly & David’s report from Karachi on January 29

Click here to read Holly & David’s report from Kandahar on January 28

Click here to read Holly & David’s report from Pakistan on January 26

Click here to read Further Observations on Pakistan & Afghanistan by John Morton